Introduction

The work of American designers forms a significant portion of the Anne Zimmerman collection, especially the designs of her friend Rudi Gernreich. However, despite the emphasis on American designers, an examination of the objects in the collection suggests a clear collecting vision for pieces that were important and innovative in the overall development of fashion from the 1950s through the 1980s, both in Europe and in the United States. Note, for example the white wool Andre Courreges dress, an iconic design of mid-1960s space-age fashion, and the Claire McCardell shirtwaist dress, a classic of the 1950s ready-to-wear American fashion. Many of the pieces in the collection reflect the work of a group of U.S. designers who, although they produced ready-to-wear, incorporated the type of dressmaker details, such as bound buttonholes, often seen in custom work.

The accessories in the collection, while also representing significant designers, show an awareness of the ability of fashion to have a sense of humor. The small hat by Bes-Ben, with its black cats perched atop the wearer's head, is an example of the style for which the company was known, but also demonstrates the knowledge and humor of the collector. A cashmere sweater, covered with appliqued bees and sequins, by one of the major American manufactures of decorative sweaters, is another example of playfulness and a "lets not take this too seriously" approach to fashion.