Norman Norell (1900-1972)

"America's Dean of Fashion" - Norell attended the Parsons School of Design in New York and the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn. His simple but stylish clothing was lauded for its glamour, timelessness, and high-quality construction. Considered the first American fashion designer to compete successfully with French coutriers, Norell's obituary appeared on the frobt page of The New York Times with the headline: "Made 7th Ave. the Rival of Paris." The designers talent was recognized in 1943 when he received the first Coty American Fashion Critics Award ever presented.

Red three-piece suit. Wool boucle, wool jersey blouse. 1960's. Label: Traina - Norell.

Claire McCardell (1905-1958)

Called the "mother of sportswear," Claire McCardell was a pioneer of the "American look." She studied at the Parsons School of Design in New York, designed for Hattie Carnegie and then for Townley Frocks. From the 1930s to the 1950s, McCardell revolutionized women's wear by designing clothing that was simple, functional, and stylish, all within the constraints of mass-production. She took simple fabrics-cotton, denim, mattress ticking, gingham, and jersey - and created clean shapes using detail as a fashion focus. McCardell effortlessly paired "separates" -skirts, pants, and sweaters - that acted as interchangeable mates, in part to make women's lives easier. In 1955, Time Magazine wrote, "She has an artist's sense of color and a sculptor's feeling for form."

Striped shirt-dress. Cotton lawn, silk organza lining. Early 1950s.

Rudi Gernreich (1922-1985)

Born in Vienna, Austria, Gernreich fled to America in 1938. He attended the Los Angeles City College from 1938 to 1941 and then worked as a dancer and costume designer. In 1948, he became a freelance fashion designer. In the 1950's, Gernreich designed swimwear for the Westwood Knitting Mills. He opened his own company, which became Rudi Gernreich Inc., in 1964. In the 1960's, Gernreich designed sportswear for a predominately youthful market. His most famous contributions included the "topless bathing suit"in 1964, and the "no-bra bra" made of molded nylon cups attached to shoulder straps and a narrow elastic band encircling the rib cage.

Brown and black mini-dress. Wool double knit. Mid-1960's.

Tina Leser (1910-1986)

Tina Leser was one of a group of designers before and during World War II that created a recognizable American sportswear look. In 1935, she opened a small dress store in Honolulu, Hawaii, where she sold both traditional textiles as well as her own designs. She started her New York business in 1941, specializing in sportswear inspired by other cultures. According to historian Madelyn Shaw, Leser created "something uniquely American from a melting pot of sources."

Printed jumpsuit with appliques at the shoulder. Cotton, rayon blend. Cotten sateen lining, 1950's.